Vinalia x Domaine Poiron-Dabin, Les Clefs du Secret

With nearly two centuries of winemaking heritage, the Poiron-Dabin family has deep roots in the Loire Valley, dating back to at least 1858. The modern winery began with the marriage of Jean Poiron and Thérèse Dabin in 1962, culminating in the acquisition of Domaine de Chantegrolle in 1990. Their sons, Jean-Michel and Laurent, took over as the next generation. Situated in the Château-Thébaud subzone of the Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine appellation, Poiron-Dabin produces rich Muscadet and has successfully revived the rare Berligou.

The picturesque Loire Valley, often called the "garden of France," is renowned for its enchanting castles and idyllic landscapes. With a winemaking tradition traced back to 77 CE, the region flourished under the Catholic Church during the Middle Ages. Stretching 170 miles, the Loire region showcases diverse grape varieties. While the Pays Nantais is nearly synonymous with one grape—the white Melon B behind the various Muscadet appellations—the distinctive local terroir is fertile ground for experimentation with a host of grape varieties, among them Berligou.

While technically an extremely niche clone of Pinot Noir, such description does not give the fascinating story of Berligou justice. First introduced to the Loire as a gift of vine cuttings from the Duke of Burgundy to the Duke of Brittany, Berligou was a preferred red grape of French royalty for many centuries. After nearly going extinct during the French Revolution, and then again in the 20th century, it was rescued by the Poiron-Dabin family in the 1990s. Spicy and complex, Berligou provides rare insight into France’s medieval wine traditions.