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Among the newest entrants to the global fine wine map, Canada has quickly earned its place among the most exciting wine-producing countries in the New World. While its history of wine production begins in the early 19th century, these last fifty years have observed rapid advancement for Canadian wine in both quality and production.
With outstanding sparkling wines, benchmark examples of icewine, and both cool climate and rich, powerful still bottlings, Canadaโs wine industry is as diverse as it is vast. From Atlantic to Pacific, Nova Scotia to British Columbia, get to know the wines of Canada with this introductory guide.
With 17,000 acres under vine, Ontario is Canadaโs largest wine-producing province. Its history of viticulture begins in 1811, when Johann Schiller planted Ontarioโs first vineyard, just outside of Toronto. Ontarioโs first 140 years of winegrowing was dominated by hybrids and native American vine species. This changed in the 1950s, when Brights, then one of Ontarioโs largest wine producers, introduced Chardonnay, a variety of the species vinifera, responsible for most (but not all) of global fine wine production.
Ontarioโs wine regions are defined and moderated by the Great Lakesโwith its largest region, the Niagara Peninsula, unfolding from the southwestern shores of Lake Ontario. The Niagara Peninsula extends toward Niagara Falls and the New York border. Much of the most sought-after vineyard territory sits on the Niagara Escarpment, a geological formation that barricades and recirculates breezes from the lake, reducing disease pressure and helping concentrate the grapes. Additional wine countries are found east of Toronto in Prince Edward County, as well as the Lake Erie North Shore adjacent to Michigan.
Ontario has gained global recognition for its achievements with cool climate winegrowing. Beyond Chardonnay, the region excels with such varieties as Riesling, Gamay, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Franc, each of which have come to be thought of as regional signatures. Ontarioโs most distinctive delicacy is icewine, for which it is the global leader in production. Icewine grapes are harvested beneath -8ห C. Their frozen state allows for higher concentration of sugars, leading to an ethereal, finely chiseled dessert wine made typically from Riesling or Vidal, as well as the red Cabernet Franc.
One of the worldโs most truly majestic vinescapes, British Columbia trails only Ontario in Canadian wine production. In recent decades, the province has excelled in the premium category, with many of its more richly styled wines counting among Canadaโs most expensive and sought after.
British Columbiaโs wine industry is concentrated in the Okanagan Valley, a vast, mountainous region built alongside lakes and in valleys among the Okanagan Range, a subbranch of the Cascades. While quite northerly, the Okanagan Valley is also continental in climate with warm summer days allowing for quite surprising ripeness, despite the latitude. Stylistically, Okanagan Valley wines share much in common with their American counterparts just across the border in Washington State. Powerful Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah wines grow in tandem with cooler fare like Riesling, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir.
The Similkameen Valley, just to the west and nestled against the United States, produces wines similar to the Okanagan Valley. Further toward the Pacific, the Fraser Valley finds more maritime climatic conditions, while Vancouver Island yields some of provinceโs most marginal wines.
Canadaโs largest consumer of wine per capita, Quebec hosts the countryโs third largest vineyard area, though it distantly trails Ontario and British Columbia. Much of Quebecโs continental, extreme climate is inhospitable to viticulture. Nevertheless, the province has made significant strides in recent years. Most quality Quebecois wine is grown in the Montรฉrรฉgie region and the Eastern Townships, south and southeast, respectively, of Montreal and against the Vermont border. While Quebec has observed some success with cooler climate vinifera grapes, such as Pinot Noir, Zweigelt, Gamay, Pinot Gris, Riesling, and Chardonnay, it excels with a number of hybrid grapes, including Frontenac, Vidal, Seyval Blanc, and Marquette. The best hybrid wines demonstrate the potential for these varieties on a global scale. Quebec also produces some icewine, as well as various fruit wines of quality.
With 1,000 acres under vine today, Nova Scotia is Canadaโs most northerly, and perhaps most surprising, wine industry. Despite its marginal climate, Nova Scotiaโs winegrowers have found success not only with a suite of hybrid grapes, especially the white LโAcadie Blanc, but also with vinifera. The province has come to specialize in sparkling wines, which generally require less ripeness than still wines for optimal quality. Made from classic sparkling varieties Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier, the best examples from the Maritimes are finely chiseled, piercingly acidic, and quite close in character to Champagne and English bubbles. These wines generally are cultivated in the Annapolis and Gaspereau Valleys near Wolfville and against the Bay of Fundy.
Wines Featured In This Guide
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