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Ten Surprising Italian Grapes to Try
No country can compete with Italy when it comes to its sheer quantity of indigenous grape varieties. Hundreds are known, and several scholars estimate more than 1,000 grapes are native to the boot.
Many of the worldβs finest wines are made from classic Italian varieties. The βthree BβsββBarolo, Barbaresco, and Brunello di Montalcinoβcome to mind, made from Nebbiolo and Sangiovese. But to stop there is a severely missed opportunity for the exploration of a fantastically diverse wine culture. Here are just ten of Italyβs lesser-known grapes worth discovering.
WHITE ITALIAN GRAPES
1. Ribolla Gialla
Producing some of Italyβs most prized white wines, Ribolla Gialla is also one of the greatest grapes to be used for skin-contact or orange wines. Cultivated primarily in northeastern Italyβs Friuli, as well as across the border in Slovenia as Rebula, Ribolla Gialla enjoys a storied pedigree as a preferred variety of the Venetian aristocracy during the Renaissance era. Tasting of ripe apples and melon rind, Ribolla Gialla yields powerful, structured wines.
2. Friulano
Friulano goes by many namesβTocai Friulano, Sauvignon Vert, Sauvignonasse. Despite what these monikers suggest, Friulano has no relation to the great Hungarian Tokaj wines, nor any genetic ties to Sauvignon Blanc. It does however, share Sauvignon Blancβs classic green, grassy flavors. Its most famous home is Italyβs Friuli, where, like Ribolla Gialla, it is vinified into both fresh white wines, as well as orange wines.
3. Pecorino
Yes, the cheese is more famous, but Pecorino is also an excellent white Italian grape. Both productsβ names derive from pecora or βsheep.β According to legend, local sheepgrazers would snack upon Pecorino grapes as they passed the vineyards of the Marche and Abruzzo. Pecorino wines are noted for their power and stony savory character, backdropped by fresh, fleshy stone fruit flavors.
4. Fiano
An extremely historic Italian white variety, perhaps even cultivated by the Greeks before potentially yielding the great Apianum wines of Roman antiquity, Fiano makes white wines for red wine drinkers. Found in Campania, and at its finest in Avellino, Fiano wines are structured, textured, and palate-coating in their tropical fruit flavors. Such high quality has been observed that winemakers in Australia, New Zealand, and beyond have also begun planting the variety.
5. Verdeca
At home in Puglia, Verdecaβs refreshing, lemony wines are the perfect complement to its hot, southerly climes. Like many Puglian varieties, Verdeca is possibly of Croatian, or potentially Greek, origins, despite being hardly found outside the immediate reach of its birthplace. Ripe with orchard and citrus flavors, Verdeca delivers lush but snappy wines with pleasant almond dust bitterness.
Must-Try Italian White Wines
Further Readings
RED ITALIAN GRAPES
6. Petit Rouge
While its name may imply French pedigree, Petit Rouge is grown almost exclusively in Italyβs Northwest. The grape hails from the Italian Alps in the Valle dβAosta region, and its examples capture the crystalline purity typical of so many wines from the area. Fresh red berry flavors conjure comparisons to Beaujolais, while Petit Rougeβs tart acidity makes for an excellent complement to dairy-rich Alpine foods.
7. Montepulciano
The great red grape of Italyβs central Adriatic coast, Montepulciano offers top wines in both the Marche and Abruzzo. Bottled both monovarietally as well as in blends, Montepulciano shouldnβt be confused with the Tuscan town of the same name that, instead, grows Sangiovese. Montepulciano produces red wines that taste quintessentially Italianβslightly acidic, rich in red fruit and sundried tomato flavor, and complicated with notes of fresh garden herbs.
8. Sagrantino
Among the finest wine grapes of Central Italy, Sagrantino is also one of the worldβs most powerful. Deeply pigmented, and rich in powerful, gripping tannin and savory amaro character, Sagrantino wines often mandate at least a decade of aging before they are approachably soft enough for enjoyment. At home in Umbriaβs Montefalco region, Sagrantino is also used to make a spectacular dried-grape sweet wine.
9. Cesanese
Believed to have been cultivated in Lazio during the time of Caesar, Cesanese offers direct insight into the wines of Roman antiquity. The grape still finds it home in the hills surrounding the Italian capital, especially around Affile, Piglio, and Olevano. The quality of Cesanese wines have continued to rise in recent years, enjoyed for their lighter red fruit profile, high acidity, and dried herb savoriness.
10. Susumaniello
Like Verdeca, Susumaniello is rarely found outside of Puglia. An offspring of Garganegaβthe great Italian white grape behind SoaveβSusumaniello likely takes its name from somarello or βdonkey,β a potential reference to the high yields (or heavy βloadsβ) the vine can bare. Susumaniello wines are enjoyed for their saturated black fruit and raisin flavors, not dissimilar from those of its fellow Puglian specialty Primitivo.
Must-Try Italian Red Wines
Conclusion
Exploring the world of lesser-known Italian grapes opens up a thrilling chapter in the journey of wine appreciation. These unique varieties, often overshadowed by their more famous counterparts, bring distinct flavors, aromas, and stories that enrich our understanding of Italy's diverse terroirs. By seeking out these hidden gems, wine enthusiasts can experience the depth and breadth of Italian viticulture, supporting local producers along the way. So, the next time you visit a wine shop or restaurant, consider venturing off the beaten path and indulging in a bottle made from one of these intriguing grapesβyou may just discover your new favourite wine.
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